Glamity Calamity

Much like having different shoes, most people need two to three shades of foundation to get through the changes that may occur in skin from season to season. Caucasian skin has the smallest variation in skin tones while darker skin tones (Asian, Hispanic, Black) have the greatest.

On darker skin tones it is not unusual to find different tones on one skin. Therefore it is usually necessary to either blend different colours of foundations to achieve the right look or to look for product lines that offer greater choices for skin of colour. You can also apply foundation only to areas that require it rather than to the entire face. 

Regardless, blending is key to achieving a smooth, even, and natural look. 

Foundations may be matte or shiny. Matte foundations work better on uneven skin types as they work well at camouflaging skin imperfections. They also work well on oilier skin types. Shiny formulas are very reflective and are better suited for younger skins or even skin types. Using these formulas on uneven skin types will only highlight imperfections in skin. 

There are various types of foundations including tinted moisturizers, liquids, creams, liquid/ cream dual blends as well as mineral powder and each serves a different purpose. 

Tinted moisturizers
These function both as a moisturizer and as a foundation. Its moisturizing properties hydrate the skin; whereas the foundation properties provide colour. These products do not contain as much pigment as normal foundations and provide just a slight tint to the skin. They can easily be worn during the day, can vary in texture – from fluid to creamy texture and may contain sunscreen. These products are applied just like a moisturizer; dispense on fingertips and apply to face.

These types of foundations only come in a limited number of shades, and although they only impart very little colour, people with darker skin tones may find great difficulty in finding one that compliments their skin tones. In this case it will be better to use a moisturizer followed by loose powder in your skin tone.

Liquid foundations 
These are most popular and may be used by both combination/ oily and dry skin types. Liquid foundations come in both oil-free and oil based (respectfully) formulations and may be layered on skin for a thin or thicker coverage to even skin texture as well as to cover slight scarring.

Creams
When maximum coverage is desired cream formulations are often chosen. These foundations have the best covering ability, and offer heavy coverage and lasting ability when set with powder. Because of the amount of coverage these foundations impart, they are most often used in film and photography. They do contain a high content of oils so will work better for dry skins rather than oily skin types for extended wear. 

Dual Cream/ Powder
This provides the coverage of a cream with the ease of application of a powder.When applied wet with a dry or moist sponge, this formulation gives a matte look. When dusted on with a dry brush it provides a shiny look. Alternatively it may be applied with a dry or moist sponge and then followed with a dry brush to build more coverage.However, this type comes in a limited range of colours and may prove to be comedogenic (clog pores) for some skin types, especially oily skin.

Mineral Powder 
This formulation also comes in a wide range of colours and hides general imperfections. These formulations come either pressed (compact) or loose and may be applied either with a dry brush or cosmetic sponge depending on desired look. Cosmetic sponges deposit more product than do the larger dry brushes. 

For more drastic pigmentation issues there are specific makeup brands that offer 10 times or more the pigment content that normal foundations contain. This means that they offer superior coverage and can cover skin imperfections. Cover FX and Dermablend are just two examples of  makeup brands that offer foundations which can be used for camouflage acne, melasma, rosacea, sun damage, scars, tattoos and vitiligo for example.

For more on selecting correct foundation tone and formulation see here.

Supernova

Works consulted:
Milady’s Standard Comprehensive Training for Estheticians