Exfoliating vs. Peeling
Tuesday, December 1st, 2009
The words peeling and exfoliating are often used interchangeably, but there is a big difference between chemical exfoliation that is done in Medical Spas by estheticians, and chemical peeling that is done by dermatologists or plastic surgeons.
Both processes refine the skin’s appearance in a relatively short period of time. However, in chemical exfoliation, only superficial layers of the skin are removed whereas deeper layers of skin are removed in the chemical peeling process.
Chemical peels are acids that are applied on the skin, which facilitate a controlled shedding of the skin’s surface.
Types of Chemical Peels
There are three types of chemical peels:
- Superficial peels
- Medium depth peels
- Deep peels
Medium and deep peels are generally NOT recommended for medium to darker skin types. This is because medium to darker skins are prone to hyper-pigmentation (darkening) and scarring. During these deeper chemical peels, skin is essentially damaged to the point where it is forced to repair itself and form a new superficial layer. This process, in medium to darker skins, can result in permanent scarring.
Superficial peels
Generally, superficial chemical peels may be used on most skin types/ conditions, however different active ingredients are used depending on the type of treatment required. Some of the more common types of acids used in superficial peels include:
- Glycolic acid – used to refine aging skin and for brightening dark spots
- Lactic acid - used for sensitive skin
- Salicylic acid - used for acne prone skin.
Microdermabrasion is considered a superficial peel, as in this process only the outermost layers of skin are removed. However, unlike chemical peels where superficial layers of skin are removed chemically, in microdermabrasion the outermost layers of skin are removed mechanically.
Superficial peels may be performed by estheticians who have been appropriately trained in this procedure.
Typically there is no downside associated with superficial peeling procedures, and recovery may consist of mild redness and flaking. Normal activities may be resumed with the use of appropriate sun protection.
Medium depth peels
Medium depth peels are recommended for fair complexions, and usually contain higher levels of stronger acids.
In this process, the outer, superficial layers of the skin are targeted as well as some of the deeper layers of the skin.
Recovery occurs within 5-7 days after which sloughing of the skin occurs. Skin is red immediately after treatment and is often accompanied by swelling. Skin turns brown in colour within a day of the treatment and begins the peeling process within 3 or 4 days.
Medium depth peels can only be administered by dermatologists or medical surgeons and are not recommended for medium to darker skin tones.
Deep peels
These peels produce the most result, but are the most damaging.
They are recommended for fair skin types and for treating:
- Wrinkles
- Scars and blemishes and
- Precancerous skin lesions (in some cases)
Deep peels go so far into the skin’s layers that anesthesia may be required during the procedure to reduce the warm, hot and stinging sensation.
Recovery time is the longest with deep peels. Immediately after this peel, skin is red and can result in swelling and blistering. A crust may form and will turn a brown colour just before it peels off. As deep peels penetrate various layers of skin, the skin may shed various layers over a 1-2 week period, and appropriate skin dressings may be prescribed to keep skin moist.
The new skin that is developed will feel and resemble that which has been terribly sunburnt, but will gradually fade to normal skin colour.
Only dermatologists and medical surgeons are qualified to perform deep peel skin treatments.
Deep chemical peels are not recommended for medium to darker skin tones.
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