Battle of the Acids
Tuesday, June 1st, 2010
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In an effort to keep the fountain of youth flowing, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) have taken up permanent residence in almost any talk that mentions exfoliation.
AHAs are naturally occurring acids derived from plant sources, which are often used as exfoliants in skin care.
Types of AHAs
There are many AHAs, for example:
- Tartaric acid (grapes),
- Citric acid (citrus fruits),
- Malic acid (apples), and
- Mandelic acid (bitter almonds).
However, Lactic acid (derived from milk) and Glycolic acid (derived from sugar cane) seem to be the most popular.
These acids are used in professional treatments, both by skin therapists as well as medical practitioners, but they are also popping up in over the counter skin care remedies as well, in lower strengths of course, usually less than 10% acid.
Part of this may be attributed to the fact that AHAs appear to be replacing Retin-A (commonly referred to as retinol), which was commonly used in skin care formulations in the past. I can only imagine that the reason for this is that AHAs are less harsh and irritating on the skin than Retin-A is (remember that!).
How does this exfoliation occur?
AHAs contain molecules small enough to penetrate the outer superficial layers of the skin (the layers that you see), into the skin’s lower, the dermis or ‘true skin’, where all the action happens (that which you don’t see).
This is done by breaking down a ‘cement’ of sorts that bind dead skin cells together, hereby assisting cell turnover, i.e. the time that it takes for new, fresh, hydrated skin cells to make it’s way to the surface, replacing any lingering old, dead skin cells that contribute to giving skin it’s dull, lackluster, sallow appearance. Sounds similar to what happens in Hollywood.
Lactic vs. Glycolic Acid
So what’s the difference, if any, and which is ‘better’?
No one is necessarily ‘better’ but, because of the differences, one may be better suited to certain skin conditions than the other.
Both lactic acid and glycolic acid function similarly in their ability to ‘exfoliate’ the surface layers of the skin, in order to reveal softer, smoother skin, as well as reduce the appearance of wrinkles, decreased blemishes and lightened age spots.
However, in addition to exfoliating, lactic acid has also been found to
- Brighten and
- Hydrate the skin.
Because of this, the use of lactic acid over glycolic acid can prove beneficial and less irritating on certain skins, for example those who are genetically prone to skin sensitivity (usually found in those plagued with asthma, eczema or allergies like hay fever) or have skin that is easily sensitized. See the difference between sensitive and sensitized skin here
Skins that are prone to darkening (or hyper-pigmentation) like Asian or darker skins, may also be better off using lactic acid as opposed to glycolic acid in skin care treatment. Why? Lactic acid gives that additional brightening oomph, which would be beneficial as irritation on these particular types of skins often lead to darkening of the skin. Not cool.
b FreakinFabulous
Photo: luigi diamanti / FreeDigitalPhotos.net
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