Q/A: Is toner important?

“Cleanse, Tone, Moisturize… is it important that I use toner on my skin?”

There is some debate as to whether the toning step is a necessary part of maintaining the skin’s health. Some people see this as an unnecessary step in a skin-care regime.

The purpose of a toner is to balance the skin’s pH after cleansing.  So purely from this stand-point, yes it is important to add a toner to your skin-care regime.

This is why:

The skin produces both oils (sebum) and sweat, which create a barrier on the skin’s surface. This layer forms a protective barrier against certain forms of bacteria and microorganisms and it may be a factor in the natural skin shedding and renewal process.

The degree to which a substance is acidic or alkaline is measured on a pH scale that goes from 1 (most acidic)  to 14 (most alkaline).

A substance is considered an acid if it has a pH value lower than 7, like lemon which has a pH value of just above 2
A substance is considered alkaline if it has a pH of higher than 7, like soap which has a pH value of 10. Most substances that feel sudsy or are difficult to wash off your fingers, because you wash and wash and wash and wash and your skin still feels sudsy even though it looks clean, are considered to be alkaline.

Pure water is neither acidic nor alkaline and has a pH value of 7 

So with this in mind, the skin’s pH varies between 4.5 and 6.2, so washing your face with even the purest water will change the pH balance of your skin as pure water (at pH 7) is considered to be more alkaline than the skin (average pH 5.5).

Imagine then washing your face with soap (pH 10)… the barrier of your skin is totally stripped, making it defenseless against those bacteria and migro-organisms that are ready and waiting to have a feast. It is for this reason it is not recommended that you wash your skin with very harsh cleansers in an effort to rid your skin of oil, as it will just make matters worse.

A cleanser needs to be more alkaline than the skin so that it can remove the dirt, but not so alkaline that it removes this protective barrier.This is why it is recommended that you use pH balanced skin cleansers rather than soap to cleanse your skin. *ooooohhhhhh*. Yes, it is more than just marketing, it’s actually scientific.

Toners then, are formulated bring the pH of your skin down after cleansing, closer to the skin’s natural pH (they are acidic in nature to balance the alkaline nature of most cleansers). This assists the skin in rebalancing itself after you cleanse, which makes your skin more prepared to deal with absorbing the moisture/ oils it needs from your moisturizer.

So from that point of view, yes toners are necessary. 

Toodles.

Supernova

HELP! My skin is schizo

Ever think that your skin is playing tricks on you? You’ve finally gotten your breakouts under control and then ‘HELLO’ a congregation of zits greet you in the morning. Or perhaps one day your skin feels ‘oily’ and the other day it feels ‘dry’. STEUPS!

Several factors can affect the condition of our skins including:

~ Climate/ Seasonal changes
~ Environmental pollution
~ Diet
~ Stress level
~ Medication
~ Smoking
~ Ultraviolet Rays (UVRs), largely from the sun.

Lets look at these more closely:

1. Seasonal changes 

It is typical that skin feels ‘drier’ during cooler months and ‘oilier’ during warmer months. Just like you would not wear shorts and sandals during the winter months, it is wise to change your skin care products to adapt to the changing weather.

For example the harsh outdoor wind chill combined with the forced heat indoors create havoc on our skin. Usually we tend to purchase a thicker, more moisturizing body lotion and likewise we should do the same for our faces. This is especially important for people who have a more dry skin type. You may want to consider a cream cleanser (not sudsy, but rather a creamy texture) combined with a moisturizing lotion (contains a moisturizing ingredient like Vitamin E, Cocoa Butter or Shea butter for example as it’s first ingredient).

Likewise, our skins may feel oilier in the summer months. Persons with an oily skin type may find it useful to use an acne-fighting cleanser to help control breakouts, combined with a hydrating moisturizer (contains water or similar ingredient like Hyaluronic Acid as its first ingredient).

Tropical island inhabiters may not have these issues. 

2. Environmental pollution
From coming into contact with chemicals to inhaling toxic fumes, pollution can cause increased sensitivity in skin leaving it red, much like as in an allergic reaction. If you live in a metropolitan area, unfortunately there is not much you can do to avoid coming into contact with these fumes. It is therefore important that these pollutants are removed from you skin at night before bed. If not during sleep all the dirt and pollutants that were collected on your face during the day is further pressed into your pores while you sleep at night. 

3. Diet
So the jury is still out on whether chocolates give you pimples. Maybe this was started by someone who was anti-Valentines day or by someone who was allergic to chocolate, either way chocolate in your diet is the least of your worries. There are larger diet issues to worry about such as:

~ Foods with a high sugar content
Excess calories. Sugar, and not fat, is the bigger enemy my friends. Diabetes is standing right outside your door with this one.

~ Heavily fried and seasoned foods

~ High alcohol/ caffeine intake 
Dehydrates the skin. For every two cups of coffee two cups of water are needed to put your body back in balance.

4. Stress level
We’ve all heard that ‘stress can kill you’. It can also result in breakouts. There are only 24 hours in a day for a reason. Prioritize and deal with critical items one at a time.

~ Medication
Certain medications can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. If you are on any medication ask your doctor about the possible effects of the medication on your skin.

5. Smoking
Accelerates aging of skin and aids in the development of fine lines and wrinkles around the mouth area.

6. Ultraviolet Rays (UVRs)
Contributes to the destruction of skin cells which accelerates aging. See Sunkissed Beauty

Hmmm!

Act like you know.

Supernova

Q/A: Skin type vs. Skin condition

“Is there a difference between skin type and skin condition?”

Yes there is; the terms are not interchangeable.

Skin type is genetically determined and cannot be changed.
However, each skin type can be managed through proper skin care, balanced nutrition and physical activity for example.

There are 4 skin types:

1. Normal skin
It is neither dry, nor oily and has no underlying skin conditions. Very very rare especially with changing climatic conditions (see below). 

2. Dry skin – skin lacks oil
Dry skin (lacking oil) is not to be confused with dehydrated skin which lacks water (see below).

Some characteristics of dry skin type are:
~ skin pores are very small, sometimes not visible to the eye
~ skin feels tight shortly after cleansing, and sometimes even after moisturizing (in this event opt for a thicker moisturizing cream)
~ you avoid smiling in the event your skin splits

3. Oily skin – skin lacks water
This skin type feels oily after shortly after cleansing. Some characteristics of this skin type are:
~ Visible skin pores
~ prone to acne
~ comedones (whiteheads and/or blackheads) present
~ by midday your face feels like it’s sliding off

4. Combination/ Oily
This skin type is most common. Common characteristics include:
~ Oily in the T-Zone (forehead, nose and chin areas) and dry in the cheeks. 
~ Blackheads in T-Zone
~ Some days you don’t want to risk smiling and some days your face feels like it’s slipping off.

Each skin type may be affected by various underlying skin conditions. A skin condition is really the skin’s reaction to external elements and may change from day to day, season to season, or with aging,  Some common skin conditions are:

~ Acne
~ Dehydration (lacking water)
~ Roeacea
~ Hyper-pigmentation (dark spots)
~ Hypo-pigmentation (white spots)
~ Aging 
~ Sensitive 

 Several factors can affect the condition of our skins including:

~ Climate/ Seasonal changes
~ Environmental pollution
~ Diet
~ Stress level
~ Medication
~ Smoking
~ Ultraviolet Rays (UVRs), largely from the sun.

Any skin type can be affected by various skin conditions. It is therefore possible to have dry skin that is sensitive, or oily skin that is dehydrated.

N.B - It is a common misconception that dry skin needs more water and oily skin needs less oil, a huge reason why people with oily skins choose not to moisturize.

However, dry skin needs more OIL and oily skin needs more WATER.
For tips on choosing the right moisturizer for your skin see article here >  Should I moisturize?

Skin consultations by qualified estheticians are usually as a complementary service, so be sure to check around and see if you can get your skin analyzed in the event that you are unsure of your skin condition.

Toodles!

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Beauty Tip: Mother of pearls

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Teeth whitening is all the rage, especially since ‘celebrities’ keep flashing us with their most unnatural, blindingly white assests.

Fact: Dentists have added six (6) new white shades to their palette since teeth bleaching became popular in the 1990s. 
- Women’s Health, October ’08 

If you’d rather pass on the expense that comes with teeth whitening, check out these other options to whiten your smile:

1. Pass-me-the-baking-soda
Johnathon B. Levine, a cosmetic dentist in New York City,  suggests that baking soda, the common refrigerator deodorizer also removes discoloration on your teeth. The abrasive particles polish the surface while a chemical reaction between backing soda and water lightens stains. Just dip your toothbrush in the soda and scrub away.

Warning: Damage can be done to the enamel with the scrubbing so limit using baking soda this way to once a week.

It is my understanding that the overuse of baking soda can increase the porosity of teeth, so my heavy coffee and black tea drinkers who are concerned about teeth discolouration may want to go easy on the use of baking soda. If your teeth are already very sensitive, my suggestion is to avoid this step.

… Or you can simply switch to a toothpaste that contains baking soda.

2. Crunchy munchies
“Foods that are high in celulose – a strong starchlike compound found in celery, carrots, and apples – act as natural abrasives, cleansing teeth and removing surfaces naturally” says Jeff Golub-Evans, D.D.S., a cosmetic dentist, also of New York City.

Greens such as spinach, broccoli, and lettuce contain mineral compounds that form a film over the teeth, so pigments from other foods can’t stain.

(If only I read this before having all that curry for Divali…)

3. Be Shady
Ladies, a cosmetic trick to make your teeth look fashionably white  is to stick to lipstick/ lip-glosses with blue undertones in them, like blue-based red or pink lipsticks. Think (the various hues of):
~ fuchsias
~ plums
~ cherries
~ berries … (also fruits that are great for your heath. “antioxidants” YUM!!!)

Wearing accessories close to your face in these shades (earrings, scarves, necklaces, pins etc) can also bring out the whiteness in your teeth.

Avoid: Warm colours (yellow, orange, brown and warm shades of red) close to your teeth as these will only bring out the yellow in your teeth.

Say cheese! 

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Hello world!

The truth about makeup expiry dates

Saying goodbye to a barely used, safe-looking, I-paid-too-much-for-it eye-shadow may not be in your grand plan but your makeup can harbour bacteria. “Water-based makeup, such as mascara, are the greatest culprits because of the risk of contamination from bacteria which can lead to an infection” says Dr. Jason Rivers, a clinical professor at the University of British Columbia. Symptoms include redness, pain, swelling, pus, pimples or pink eye (ick!). Lynnette DaltonJames of M.A.C. Cosmetics recommends being especially vigilant about eye products.

How you handle your makeup in general can also affect it’s shelf life. If you take care of your products, it may be safe to use them a few extra months beyond the expiry date. 

Health Canada recommends that you keep cosmetics germ-free by:
~ Washing your hands before applying
~ Not sharing makeup
~ Not adding water or saliva to dilute makeup
~ Keeping cosmetics in a dry area, away from direct heat or sunlight.

Some warning signs that tell you that a product has expired include:
~ The product’s smell has changed
~ The product has been exposed to prolonged heat
~ There is an obvious colour or textural change
~ Mould is evident.

In general the following shelf life applies to makeup/ cosmeceuticals 

Mascara - 3 months (some say 6, but 3 months is recommended)

Liquid foundation and concealer - 6 – 12 months. The ones that are dispensed from a tube (with a small opening) rather than a jar or bottle (with a larger opening that facilitates contamination through double dipping of fingers or brushes) are safer to use for the 12 month period. If it contains sunscreen (SPF) in it, definitely do not use for longer than a year.

Cream blush and eyeshadow – 6 – 12 months. 

Powder blush and eyeshadow - 1 year

Eye-liner and lip-pencils – up to 2 years, 6 months for liquid eyeliner which is similar to mascara

Lipstick – 1 year

Moisturizer and skin care - 1 to 2 years. This is usually indicated by either an expiry date or an ‘open tuna’ tin on the packaging that usually shows ’12m’, ’18m’ or ’24m’ on it. This indicates the length of time, in months, the integrity of the ingredient mix is valid for, once opened.

Makeup applicators – 4 weeks max

Makeup brushes – wash with soapy water at least once a week. Lay flat to dry. Do not dry standing up as water can settle at the base where the hairs are attached and compromise the glue, destroying the brush.

This is a shout out to all my product junkies. Cosmetics/ skin care products do not last forever, so you may want to lean back a bit on spending on every new item you stumble across in the department store/ pharmacy. It’s tough I know, trust me! But do try getting through the hundreds that are already piled up under the sink/ in the top cabinet before they all go to waste!

Buy smartly.

Toodles

Supernova

Should I moisturize?

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I am asked this question often, usually by men and women with oily skin so I thought that I would address it here for the benefit of everyone.

“Should I moisturize my face?”

The answer is yes, everyone should moisturize.

Men and women’s skin differ in many ways because of the facial hair in men and hormone levels in women which can affect the skin. However, on a very basic level, human skin needs to be cleansed, toned, and moisturized twice a day – first thing in the morning and before going to bed at night.  

Moisturizers work in many ways, but they primarily:

1. Hydrate the skin

2. Replenish the natural oils lost from the skin after cleansing

The type of moisturizer you choose would depend on your skin type and skin condition.

A quick guide for choosing a moisturizer:

Normal -Dry skin: Moisturizers for this skin type are usually called ‘creams’. They are of a thick consistency (do not flow) and are better suited for dry skin as they contain the oils that dry skins lack.

Normal – Oily skin: Moisturizers for this skin type are usually referred to as ‘lotions’ or ‘fluids’. They are water based and have a fluid consistency. These products indicate ‘Water/ Agua’ as the first ingredient on the list of ingredients on their label. This means that, by volume, the product contains mostly water. These products are ideal for oily skin (skin that lacks water)

Combination skin: It is not uncommon for combination skin to feel drier during some parts of the year (ex. winter) and oilier during other parts (ex. summer). Generally lotions or fluid type moisturizers work well for combination skin, however during there are times when cream moisturizers would be better suited.

If you are unsure of what your skin type is, a qualified esthetician can assist you through performing a skin consultation, which is normally offered as a complimentary service.

Hope this helps!

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Slip, Slop, Slap, and Wrap

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We’ve all been there.

 An advertisement highlighting the damaging effects of the sun comes on and we think back to the time we wanted  a tan so badly we slathered our limbs with baby oil and beached ourselves on the sand.

 We’ve since, hopefully, learnt that this is not a good idea, and so we retired the baby oil and moved to the tanning  oil, the SPF 2 one.

Someone mentioned that this upgrade wasn’t a really much of one so we further upgraded to a SPF 15, the only problem is that we never remember to apply it the how-many-hours-before sun exposure and the how-many-hours-after being exposed to the sun.

We usually find some crafty reason we didn’t use sunscreen this morning with/in our moisturizer but the truth is that we really don’t think it’s that important because we protect ourselves otherwise, besides it’s not like we are beaching ourselves on the sand for the whole day. 

I was researching some info for SunKissed beauty the other day and came across this interesting list of sun exposure myths on sunsmart.org.nz .It’s a website from New Zealand (trust me to find it) so I’ve adapted it a bit. They have identified the top sun exposure myths as follows:

It’s not possible to get sunburnt on cloudy days.

False. You can get sunburnt on cloudy days as some ultraviolet radiation (UVR) penetrates cloud cover. Under partly cloudy skies UVR levels can be high, and even increase, due to reflection from clouds.

The wind burnt me, not the sun.

False. It is UVR from the sun that causes skin to burn. Wind lowers the temperature of the air making it easy to forget that the UVR from the sun is still strong.

I tan easily so my skin is less likely to be damaged.

False. Any exposure to UVR has the potential to cause skin damage. Burning and peeling are signs some damage has already occurred – even if it turns into a tan. The tan you develop won’t protect you from the harmful effects of the sun.

I can’t get sunburnt through glass.

False. Glass reduces but does not block transmission of all UVR. It typically transmits about 10 percent of the UVR. People who spend long periods in a car, or next to a window receiving direct sunlight should use sun protection.

I have had sunburn but now I protect my skin, so I am safe from developing skin cancer.

False. You can’t undo any damage that may have already occurred to your skin but you should prevent future sunburn to minimise any further risk.

Sunscreen blocks out the sun.

False. Sunscreen should not be used as a means of staying out in the sun longer. When exposure to the summer sun is unavoidable, sunscreen is the last line of defence to reduce the risk of sun damage to your skin. No sunscreen will completely shield you from the effects of UVR. Many people apply sunscreen at less than the recommended thickness, so reducing its effectiveness.

People with tans or dark skin don’t sunburn.

False. If your skin turns brown it is a sign of sun damage – even if there is no redness or peeling. If you tan easily or have dark skin you are still at risk of skin cancer and should use sun protection.

‘Burn time’ is 20 minutes therefore I am safe in the sun within this timeframe.

False. A time indication for how long it will take your skin to burn is not accurate, so really there is no such thing as ‘burn time’. People have different skin types and therefore some burn quicker than others. 

Suntans are healthy.

False. There is no such thing as a safe or healthy tan. It does not improve your body’s ability to protect yourself from the sun. Some exposure to the sun for vitamin D is healthy, but most people get enough vitamin D through normal daily activity – even with sun protection.

I’m sure this was not a mean attempt to freak people out but it might as well have been.

They do suggest that you slip, slop, slap and wrap…. Interesting, I like i.e. 

SLIP on a shirt
SLOP on some sunscreen
SLAP on a hat and
WRAP on a pair of sunglasses.

Reminds me of that ‘SlapChop’ commercial on TV where the guy says “Making America thinner, one SLAP at a time!” LOL. If only.

Source: SunSmart

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Smooth Criminal

Yesssssssss. Ya just gotta love that feeling of touching that smooooooth i-wanna-eat-it skin. Or that gloooowing gotta-touch-it, i-want it skin.

Some people are just so blessed. They eat all the junk, they never exercise, they drink, they smoke, they don’t sleep and yet… everything looks like it functions just fine. Or like those people who can manage to pack on unbelieveable pounds and still be alive long enough to get a reality show, while the gym bunny, who is slimmer than you are, is diagnosed with ‘normal weight obesity’ and is now living at the doctor’s office ’cause she’s at a “fatal risk for heart disease”. Yes, genetics a b!tch on a rocket stick.

Our skin is constantly shedding (skin cell turnover) cells and replacing them with new ones. It is the fresh new, hydrated and well nourished cells that impart this glow, and the dead skin cells that are just hanging around that can contribute to a dull sallow look on body. Skin cell turnover occurs naturally but slows down with age, and by ‘with age’ it is meant 25 years old or so.

…

…*crickets*…

…

Some of us are in the peak of the turnover party… yeeaaah!… Cherish it. For some of us memories of that mosh pit are a tad spotty but thankfully there are ways that we can assist our body in doing it’s thing and achieving this sexy glow by means of ~ Body Exfoliation.

In general exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells and can result in 
~ Healthier skin complexion and clarity
~ Unclogs follicles and pores allowing skin to ‘breathe’ better and for better penetration of moisturizers, lotions and serums 
~ Improves skin texture and makes it smoother (aka mas sexy!) 
~ Other skin function such as stimulating skin’s overall functions, increasing circulation, energizing superficial lymphatic flow and stimulates nerve endings…

That’s a lot of stimulation right thuurr! … but that’s another topic 

Now, this process of removing dead cells can be done manually or chemically.

Manual exfoliation stimulates circulation and involves the use of physical force (like rubbing) for example using a dry brush, mitts, loofahs, and a whole host of natural substances  like salt (detoxifies skin), sugar (moisturizes skin), cornmeal and ground coffee (said to be good to help minimize the look of cellulite) mixed with water, oils or creams. Most of these natural substances can already be found in your home and *secret* ~ are the ingredients that are often used in high end Spas for that ‘natural’ experience. Makes you think!

In chemical exfoliation an ingredient(s) or ‘chemical(s)’ in the product (acids or enzymes) do the work and no physical rubbing is required as the ingredient itself dissolves the dead skin cells. A little creepy sounding but it works amazingly well. Some of these acids/ enzymes are  found in common fruits such as papaya/paw paw, strawberries and pineapple. (food.Yum!) A common chemical exfoliation not found in food is salicylic acid, which usually found in acne treatment products. 

Along with a healthy diet and lifestyle (ever realize how many times you hear that? lol) regular exfoliation (once or twice a week) is a great way to achieve softer, healthier, more touchable skin. However there are some precautions that should be taken when adopting a exfoliating regime for the body like avoid use on:

~ open wounds
~ surgical procedures where skin should not be moved
~ sensitive areas like varicose veins, open wounds, infection or inflammation
~ sunburns (see Sunkissed beauty)

Additionally salt and other exfoliates that dissolve (like sugar) should not be used immediately after waxing as this can potentially irritate skin. Aggressive exfoliation, involving larger, sharper, non-circular granules like cornmeal & ground coffee should be avoided on sensitive skin. And by all means in the excitement of having goddess skin do not over-exfoliate or rub too hard or fast (thank goodness I’m sharing this as a verbally cause I’m cracking to hell up) as over exfoliation can damage your skin and can lead to scarring in skin that is prone to hyper-pigmentation (or darkening)… so easy on the rubbing.

You know you want to. Go get your grind on.

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Sunkissed beauty

Fall is here and the last of the brilliant summer days have long gone. For my fellow temperate climate earthlings, this is an unfortunate reality. For everyone basking in tropical paradise on permanent vacay… live it up!

The body does need sufficient amounts of UVRs in order to generate Vitamin D. A study by the University of California-San Diego School of Medicine shows that vitamin D has been found to help boost the immune system in its attempt to heal wounds (here), good stuff! Low levels of Vitamin D/ light have also been found to be associated with depression (here), not-so-good stuff. So this is not meant to address moderate sun exposure but rather sun-exposure as a sport.

What are ultraviolet rays?

The sun gives energy in the form of light waves of different lengths and intensity. The sunlight we see is called visible light. Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is located just above visible light. UVR is divided into different energy levels from longest to shortest wavelengths: UVA, UVB and UVC. (Olay)

UVA rays can be considered as ‘Aging rays’ (Think A=Aging). They have the least energy but penetrate the most deeply into the skin. It has been reported to be the least associated with skin cancer, but if delivered in high dosages can cause skin cancer, allergic and non-allergic sun-induced eruptions, darkening and pigmentation of the skin (a skin condition of great concern for darker skins, also seen as ‘freckles’ on fair to medium complexions), and acceleration of the aging process. After chronic, long-term exposure, the skin may appear dry, scaly, spotted, wrinkled and leathery.

UVB rays can be considered to be the “Burning rays” (again think B= Burn). They are the rays most responsible for imparting what is referred to as a ‘tan’, the bronzing effect. In excess, these rays can cause sunburn and can also lead to the development of certain skin cancers and are the most potent rays to reach the earth.

Which brings us to UVC rays. These rays are of the shortest wavelength, carry the most energy and are the most damaging. Fortunately they are blocked out by the ozone layer, as there is no defence against these rays by the skin. The degradation of the ozone can of course be an issue in the future. Makes you think.

The skin and its response to ultraviolet rays

One of the fundamental properties of skin is its ability to respond to UVRs. UVRs emitted from tanning beds can be just as damaging as those emitted from the sun, or even more so as you are less likely to be concerned about the effects of the UVR when you are paying to get it. Who doesn’t want to get their money’s worth? How about that complementary extra 10 minutes at the tanning salon?…

Redness, also known as erythema is the skin’s first visible signal that the skin is in jeopardy. The first *DING DING DING* alarm. It signals to the individual that you may want to head inside now and shows that the immune system is active and that the healing process has begun. Redness is usually more visible in skin types I to III and less obvious in skin types IV to VI. In the darker skin types, however the individual may experience a warming sensation on the skin.

Tanning is the second pigmentary response to UVR rays and is really a signal from the skin saying:

 “Okay then… you wanna play it like that and ignore me, fine. I’ll have to bring out the battalion.” The alarm has been sounded; all defences are up. Skin is now in overdrive.

During tanning, the skin facilitates the development of darker skin on regions of the body exposed to UVR rays. The lighter the complexion, the more the skin has to compensate for it than it does for darker complexions, all UVRs being equal. This is because darker complexions can have up to as much protection as a sunscreen of a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) 15. Sunburns are a result of the skin being stretched beyond its capacity to repair itself.

The term ‘healthy tan’ is an oxymoron; a combination of two normally contradicting terms, which in this case is normally said in error.

Didn’t think getting bronzed ‘n sexy was so complicated huh?

Tropical paradises are lovely. There is something about the yummy-ness of feeling we get when the sun hits the body, that ‘happy’ feeling… sigh.

Moderation the key. So let us act like we know.

Sources: Olay,  SunSmart, Vitamin D, Notes.

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