Shake it off: Loose Powder

Loose powder helps set foundation and concealer, and helps it wear longer. It also gives a smooth appearance to the skin when applied and create a good base for the other colour products that are applied after, like blush and eyeshadows. 

Loose powders are also used present a better skin tone by correcting foundation that is not the right colour.

Let’s be real, try as you may, sometimes you may not be able to find foundation in the right skin tone, especially if you live in a temperate country and your skin color fluctuates by a shade during the year. Skin tone can be ‘warmed’ by using a darker tone of powder; foundation that is a touch lighter than your natural skin tone can be ‘warmed’ by the application of a darker powder. Likewise, if your foundation is a tad too dark, you can use a lighter powder to correct the tone. Of course this works best for minor tone changes.

It’s best to use loose powder for makeup application at home and compressed (compact) powder for touchups on-the-go.

Loose powder may be applied with a large fluffy powder brush or for more with a powder puff. (big up all my Trini peeps with Carnival on the cranium 24-7).

Powder puffs deliver more product to the skin and give more coverage. Use if your skin is combination/ oily and has a tendency to become really oily during the day, as powder applied this way helps the foundation not only last longer, but stay true to colour. 

Powder brushes are best used for minimal coverage or on dry skins.

Compact powder may be applied in the same way, depending on skin types. 

- For use with large powder brush:

To get some loose powder out of the container, first lay some tissue to catch any spills. Turn closed loose powder upside down once and set back to original standing position on tissue and open.

Dab powder brush in powder that rests on the top of the perforated tray of the loose powder and knock the brush on the side of the container to remove any excess.

Don’t fluff but rather pat powder brush directly on skin on entire face, paying special attention to T-Zone area (forehead, nose and chin) and well as eye area and any other areas where concealer was applied.  Patting the powder in this way delivers more powder to the face which would assist in absorbing oil, enabling extended wear and giving a dewy look to the skin. 

Then dust off excess powder with brush

- For use with powder puff

Empty some of the loose powder in powder puff, fold like a taco shell and rub the sides together. Pat powder on all areas of the face, paying special attention to tight spaces like around the nose and the eyes. 

When complete, dust off powder with powder brush. 

 

Now you can check to ensure that your eyebrows are holding it’s shape together and move on to eyeshadow application.

Happy powdering!

Supernova

 

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Holy Concealer Batman!

Using concealer is an optional step. If you choose to use concealer select one in the same way that you would a foundation – one that matches your skin tone and undertone exactly. Using too light a tone will prompt the uncontrolled “Holy Concealer Batman” response from your peers; too dark and you will look like a raccoon.

 

Concealers come in liquid or cream formulations. The creamier the consistency, the more coverage imparted by the concealer i.e. the better it conceals. These formulations also spreads easier and wears longer.

It is commonly used over foundation to cover imperfections or, for more advanced makeup applications, it may be used under foundation for contouring. 

Concealers are used over foundations to cover: 
- fine lines
- redness
- breakouts
- under eye circles
- hyper-pigmentation (darker skin tone)

Application

- Apply with lip brush for smaller areas like over pimples and small blemishes, or with a flat brush, similar to the foundation brush but smaller, for larger areas.

- Even application by patting gently with a cosmetic sponge or finger. 

Advanced application

For more advanced applications,  concealers are used for makeup contouring, to even irregular lip shapes, and for camouflage reasons. 

Used under foundation, concealers may highlight or shadow an area of the face like the cheeks, to create a contoured look. Here, a concealer in a shade lighter than your skin tone is used on the cheek bone area to make cheek bones more prominent.

Alternatively, in shadowing i.e. applying concealer in one shade darker than your skin tone just under your cheek bones will create a more sculptured look. 

Highlighting and shadowing can also be achieved using foundation, and eye-shadows in the same way.

The key is, just as with clothing, lighter colours makes the area appear more prominent thereby attracting attention to the area , whereas darker colours repress an area making it appear less noticeable or slimmer. 

Face proportion issues can also be corrected with shadowing and highlighting.

Happy concealing!

.

Supernova

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Selecting the right foundation  
Frump to Fab in 10 Steps

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Mood busters: Brillo pads

 

The mood is set.

It’s Friday. Sally’s been sexting that guy for a couple days now and by golly yes, she’s gonna get some this weekend, whole weekend. She caught up on her laundry. *Sniff* Ahhhhh…” Crisp Linen” . She put aside that extra lacy number, the one that comes attached to the thigh-high fishnet stockings, parachuete style.

She cranks up the music and starts the two hour long mission that it takes to get herself together. She scrubs, bushwacks, tweezes, paints, flatirons, shimmerizes and glamourizes. Looking at herself in the mirror, she nods in agreement and strikes her fiercest ‘smize’ cause hot damn, as the David Guetta mix that’s blaring through her speakers raves, she’s a Sexy B!tch. She slips into her FMPs, walks through mists of some celebrity inspired cologne, clutch in one hand, BlackBerry and keys in the other, and she’s out the dizzoor. Money don’t matter tonight, no sir, Mama’s gonna get her some.

The night goes as exactly as she planned it, just call her the Master Creator. The fine piece of man meat is back at her apartment and it’s getting hot and steamy fast. Blame it on the blubbly. Clothes are stripped off and things get touchy feely. She thinks to herself “YYYYEEEEESSSSSSSSS!” hardly believing that it’s all coming together. 

That is until ” RRIIIIIIIIIIIIIPP”.  Her fishnets are scoured by brillo pads and she starts to bleed. 

Oh.My. God. Ugh. Crusty foot bottoms. Total mood buster. Oh, and ashy skin. 

Fellas, might I suggest some ‘M.E.‘ time.

‘Moisturize & Exfoliate’

All skin needs to be exfoliated and moisturized. The skin on your face as well as the skin on your body.

- A simple hand towel (changed at least once a week) or some body gloves with your shower gel used everyday will take care of body exfoliation.

- A simple foot file will take care of exfoliation on the soles of the feet 

- And a lotion/ cream/ oil (depending on how dry your skin is) will do it for sexy, healthy, nourished skin from neck to toe.

Yes, it is an extra step, but not only is there no algebra involved, noone in the pharmacy is going to look at you funny, so it can totally be done.

And guess what? BOTH of these issues can be rectified in the shower. No-one has to know that you are paying attention to yourself. How lucky are you! You can do it whenever you shower, no matter how many times you shower for the week, no-one’s judging.

So lets get started shall we?

1. First hit that pharmacy and get yourself some lotion and a foot file.
Every pharmacy has them in any colour and size that you can imagine. Pick whichever appeals to you. The ones with the handles are easiest to use.

2. Put them both in your shower stall

3. Exfoliate your heels
In the shower after you lather up, grab that spanking new foot file and take a good go at your heels with it.  

I suggest doing this after you have done the soapy soap so that your feet will get some time to soak and soften up before you go in for the kill.

There may be some ‘stuff’ well to work through, but easy truckin’…one day at a time. If you do a little every day, your job will be easier as there will be no build up. But I understand that you are super busy and this may be a stretch so  at least aim for twice a week, once the weekend and another sometime during the week. 

First half down

4. Lotion skin before leaving the shower.

After you turn off the shower and before you get out of the stall, wrap (not rub) the towel around your torso to absorb excess moisture and then  grab the bottle of lotion and lotion up. Yes lotion up while you are still misty. The bathroom is still foggy, you have that so fresh and so clean feeling, your skin is glistening… lotion it. 

Pay special attention to your feet, heels, elbows, rear and thighs, especially in the winter months because jeans can chafe something fierce on a rocket. 

Take some time, brush your teeth, cleanse & moisturize your skin or whatever else you do in there and then lightly towel off or wrap your sexy self the way only you do and step out like you own the joint. 

 

Whatever you do you choose to do next with that exfoliated and moisturized piece of meat that you call yourself is totally up to you.

Aoowww.

.

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Sun and Skin Types

A person’s complexion and their tolerance of sunlight are measured using the Fitzpatrick Classification scale. It was developed in 1975 by Harvard Medical School dermatologist, Thomas Fitzpatrick, MD, PhD., and used by practitioners to determine how someone will respond or react to facial treatments such as successful laser, light therapy and peels and how likely they are to get skin cancer. It is important to understand that not all facial treatments are suitable for all skin types.

Fitzpatrick Classification scale

This scale is a guide and is not intended to replace the advice of your practitioner.

Sunscreen

It’s white and goopy. Some brands remind me of the beach which, in itself can be a bit of a downer… but I digress. Sun protection factor (SPF) is a number on a scale for rating the degree of protection provided by sunscreens. No sunscreen can filter out 100% UVRs so even while wearing sunscreen, it is possible for you to tan. Your chosen sunscreen should protect against both UVA and UVB rays.

Types of sunscreen

There are two types of agents used to screen the sun’s rays, physical agents and chemical agents.

Physical sunscreen agents use their opaque property to block out the sun as they sit on top of skin to prevent UVRs from entering. (think: White paste on cricketers noses). These types of sunscreens should be the LAST product applied to the skin, even after the moisturer. Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide are most common physical sunscreen agents.

The upside is that they are very effective at screening UVRs; the downside is that using it on darker skins can result in a ghastly grey complexion.

Chemical sunscreen agents penetrate layers of the skin and protect it from within and as such should be the FIRST product put on the skin after cleaning. There are a host of these agents used in sunscreen products e.g. Dixoybenzone, Oxybenzone, PABA… and new ones are created every year, many of them unpronounceable. 

The upside is that as they penetrate the skin, and thereby does not affect skin tone – a plus for darker complexions. The downside is some chemical sunscreen ingredients may irritate sensitive skin.

 

Lotion up!

Supernova

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Anti-Aging Tip #6

Wear Sun Screen

This should have been the first Anti-Aging tip, but I didn’t want it to get lost in the melee.

Badly damaging skin due to unprotected exposure to the sun’s UV rays is the greatest way to accelerate your skin’s aging process. 

The best anti-aging advice anyone can give is to avoid excessive sun exposure and at the very least, wear a broad spectrum sun screen that protects against both UVA and UVB rays.

Everyone should wear sunscreen daily, SPF 15 minimum. Lighter skin types, Fitzpatrick skin types (I, II and III), should wear sunscreen containing a minimum of SPF 20.

Exposure to ultraviolet radiation emitted by the sun, even in small daily doses, results in free radical action on skin that enables the destruction of natural collagen and elastin fibres in skin, causing skin to lose elasticity and tone, as well as develop wrinkles, crows feet and frown lines. 

We live in modern times. There are many types of sunscreen products in various formulations/ weights in creams, lotions and fluids.  No longer does sunscreen have to smell of bananas and coconuts, be oily, or cause acne breakouts. There are formations that incorporate sunscreen into moisturizers and foundations. Alternatively sunscreen can be worn alone or under makeup. There are sunscreens formulated for the face and others formulated for the body. The options are endless.

It may be cute and ‘cool’ to bake in the sun and live in tanning beds when we are young, but not so cute to have to consider replacing the lost collagen in our skin when we are older, by the use of injectable fillers or surgical procedures.

Though darker skin types are better protected against the damaging sun’s rays, they are not immune to aging.

So really, there is no excuse to not wearing it.

Playing russian roulette with your skin health is so 80′s.

For more on Sun Screens see post Sun and Skin Types

Lotion up!

 

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Q/A: Which type of foundation is for me?

Much like having different shoes, most people need two to three shades of foundation to get through the changes that may occur in skin from season to season. Caucasian skin has the smallest variation in skin tones while darker skin tones (Asian, Hispanic, Black) have the greatest.

On darker skin tones it is not unusual to find different tones on one skin. Therefore it is usually necessary to either blend different colours of foundations to achieve the right look or to look for product lines that offer greater choices for skin of colour. You can also apply foundation only to areas that require it rather than to the entire face. 

Regardless, blending is key to achieving a smooth, even, and natural look. 

Foundations may be matte or shiny. Matte foundations work better on uneven skin types as they work well at camouflaging skin imperfections. They also work well on oilier skin types. Shiny formulas are very reflective and are better suited for younger skins or even skin types. Using these formulas on uneven skin types will only highlight imperfections in skin. 

There are various types of foundations including tinted moisturizers, liquids, creams, liquid/ cream dual blends as well as mineral powder and each serves a different purpose. 

Tinted moisturizers
These function both as a moisturizer and as a foundation. Its moisturizing properties hydrate the skin; whereas the foundation properties provide colour. These products do not contain as much pigment as normal foundations and provide just a slight tint to the skin. They can easily be worn during the day, can vary in texture – from fluid to creamy texture and may contain sunscreen. These products are applied just like a moisturizer; dispense on fingertips and apply to face.

These types of foundations only come in a limited number of shades, and although they only impart very little colour, people with darker skin tones may find great difficulty in finding one that compliments their skin tones. In this case it will be better to use a moisturizer followed by loose powder in your skin tone.

Liquid foundations 
These are most popular and may be used by both combination/ oily and dry skin types. Liquid foundations come in both oil-free and oil based (respectfully) formulations and may be layered on skin for a thin or thicker coverage to even skin texture as well as to cover slight scarring.

Creams
When maximum coverage is desired cream formulations are often chosen. These foundations have the best covering ability, and offer heavy coverage and lasting ability when set with powder. Because of the amount of coverage these foundations impart, they are most often used in film and photography. They do contain a high content of oils so will work better for dry skins rather than oily skin types for extended wear. 

 

Dual Cream/ Powder
This provides the coverage of a cream with the ease of application of a powder.When applied wet with a dry or moist sponge, this formulation gives a matte look. When dusted on with a dry brush it provides a shiny look. Alternatively it may be applied with a dry or moist sponge and then followed with a dry brush to build more coverage.However, this type comes in a limited range of colours and may prove to be comedogenic (clog pores) for some skin types, especially oily skin.

 

Mineral Powder 
This formulation also comes in a wide range of colours and hides general imperfections. These formulations come either pressed (compact) or loose and may be applied either with a dry brush or cosmetic sponge depending on desired look. Cosmetic sponges deposit more product than do the larger dry brushes. 

 

For more drastic pigmentation issues there are specific makeup brands that offer 10 times or more the pigment content that normal foundations contain. This means that they offer superior coverage and can cover skin imperfections. Cover FX and Dermablend are just two examples of  makeup brands that offer foundations which can be used for camouflage acne, melasma, rosacea, sun damage, scars, tattoos and vitiligo for example.

For more on selecting correct foundation tone and formulation see here.

.

Works consulted:
Milady’s Standard Comprehensive Training for Estheticians 

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Selecting the right foundation

Ever saw a chick and wonder, what the hell was she thinking? “… Did she see herself before she left the house?…” 

It’s a whole lot easier to judge than to choose the right foundation; especially one that stands up to flashing lights.

If you choose to wear foundation, choosing the right foundation is key to achieving a natural look, otherwise you are better off wearing none at all. The type of foundation you choose will depend on many factors, including:
- Skin type and condition and
- Skin undertone

Therefore it stands to reason that not only do you need to select a foundation in the right colour, but you also need to find one in the right formulation for your skin.

Colour

Foundations should match your skin color/ tone exactly. If you are going to spend the money anyway, buy the right colour. With the plethora of shades available today there is no excuse to wear foundation in the wrong colour.

To find the right colour, apply foundation to a cleansed area of your jawline and not on your neck, wrist or on the back of your hand; It is not common for the colour of your face and that of your hands to be the same, wrists or otherwise.

Blend foundation into jawline, view in natural light or incandescent light (not fluorescent light) and ensure that it blends perfectly.

You should be second guessing as to where the makeup was applied. If you find yourself rubbing vigorously to blend the makeup in after various tries, keep it moving and try another.

There are different skin undertones, primarily yellow, pink  and olive. It is important to get a foundation that matches the undertone of your skin to achieve the most natural look. Generally, medium to darker skin tones usually carry a yellow undertone. Many lighter caucasian skin tones carry a pink undertone and Mediterranean skin usually carries an olive skin tone. If you are of mixed descent, no worries,  you may have to spend a little more time at the makeup counter.

If you have difficulty finding your colour in an inexpensive brand, it is worth it to spend the extra bucks to find a foundation that is right for you. It is very common to find foundations with a pink or cool undertone. Foundations with yellow or warm undertone are not as abundant. 

Formulation
Foundations can come in all different types and forms, including compact powders, mineral powders, dual cream/ powder blends,  tinted moisturizers, liquid formulations  as well as cream formulations.

Powdered formulations work well for Combination/ oily skin types and cream formulations work well for normal to dry skin types. Liquid formulations can work for either oily or dry skin types as there are both oil-free and oil-based liquid formations (respectively). See skin types here.

In some cases, especially where there may be pigmentation issues on the skin – certain areas like around the mouth or the chin area may be a shade or two darker than the forehead for example, it may be necessary to use two different shades of foundation and blend them where they meet. If applying one tone (usually the darker tone over the areas with lighter skin) does not seem unnatural it may not be necessary to do this.

Using a loose powder all over the face after application will help to tie both foundations together. 

Let us all strive to build our makeup on the right foundation shall we.

.

Supernova

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Q/A: Skin type vs. Skin condition

“Is there a difference between skin type and skin condition?”

Yes there is; the terms are not interchangeable.

Skin type is genetically determined and cannot be changed.
However, each skin type can be managed through proper skin care, balanced nutrition and physical activity for example.

There are 4 skin types:

1. Normal skin
It is neither dry, nor oily and has no underlying skin conditions. Very very rare especially with changing climatic conditions (see below). 

2. Dry skin – skin lacks oil
Dry skin (lacking oil) is not to be confused with dehydrated skin which lacks water (see below).

Some characteristics of dry skin type are:
~ skin pores are very small, sometimes not visible to the eye
~ skin feels tight shortly after cleansing, and sometimes even after moisturizing (in this event opt for a thicker moisturizing cream)
~ you avoid smiling in the event your skin splits

3. Oily skin – skin lacks water
This skin type feels oily after shortly after cleansing. Some characteristics of this skin type are:
~ Visible skin pores
~ prone to acne
~ comedones (whiteheads and/or blackheads) present
~ by midday your face feels like it’s sliding off

4. Combination/ Oily
This skin type is most common. Common characteristics include:
~ Oily in the T-Zone (forehead, nose and chin areas) and dry in the cheeks. 
~ Blackheads in T-Zone
~ Some days you don’t want to risk smiling and some days your face feels like it’s slipping off.

Each skin type may be affected by various underlying skin conditions. A skin condition is really the skin’s reaction to external elements and may change from day to day, season to season, or with aging,  Some common skin conditions are:

~ Acne
~ Dehydration (lacking water)
~ Roeacea
~ Hyper-pigmentation (dark spots)
~ Hypo-pigmentation (white spots)
~ Aging 
~ Sensitive 

 Several factors can affect the condition of our skins including:

~ Climate/ Seasonal changes
~ Environmental pollution
~ Diet
~ Stress level
~ Medication
~ Smoking
~ Ultraviolet Rays (UVRs), largely from the sun.

Any skin type can be affected by various skin conditions. It is therefore possible to have dry skin that is sensitive, or oily skin that is dehydrated.

N.B - It is a common misconception that dry skin needs more water and oily skin needs less oil, a huge reason why people with oily skins choose not to moisturize.

However, dry skin needs more OIL and oily skin needs more WATER.
For tips on choosing the right moisturizer for your skin see article here >  Should I moisturize?

Skin consultations by qualified estheticians are usually as a complementary service, so be sure to check around and see if you can get your skin analyzed in the event that you are unsure of your skin condition.

Toodles!

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Should I moisturize?

 

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I am asked this question often, usually by men and women with oily skin so I thought that I would address it here for the benefit of everyone.

“Should I moisturize my face?”

The answer is yes, everyone should moisturize.

Men and women’s skin differ in many ways because of the facial hair in men and hormone levels in women which can affect the skin. However, on a very basic level, human skin needs to be cleansed, toned, and moisturized twice a day – first thing in the morning and before going to bed at night.  

Moisturizers work in many ways, but they primarily:

1. Hydrate the skin

2. Replenish the natural oils lost from the skin after cleansing

The type of moisturizer you choose would depend on your skin type and skin condition.

A quick guide for choosing a moisturizer:

Normal -Dry skin: Moisturizers for this skin type are usually called ‘creams’. They are of a thick consistency (do not flow) and are better suited for dry skin as they contain the oils that dry skins lack.

Normal – Oily skin: Moisturizers for this skin type are usually referred to as ‘lotions’ or ‘fluids’. They are water based and have a fluid consistency. These products indicate ‘Water/ Agua’ as the first ingredient on the list of ingredients on their label. This means that, by volume, the product contains mostly water. These products are ideal for oily skin (skin that lacks water)

Combination skin: It is not uncommon for combination skin to feel drier during some parts of the year (ex. winter) and oilier during other parts (ex. summer). Generally lotions or fluid type moisturizers work well for combination skin, however during there are times when cream moisturizers would be better suited.

If you are unsure of what your skin type is, a qualified esthetician can assist you through performing a skin consultation, which is normally offered as a complimentary service.

 

Hope this helps!

.

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Smooth Criminal

 

Yesssssssss. Ya just gotta love that feeling of touching that smooooooth i-wanna-eat-it skin. Or that gloooowing gotta-touch-it, i-want it skin.

Some people are just so blessed. They eat all the junk, they never exercise, they drink, they smoke, they don’t sleep and yet… everything looks like it functions just fine. Or like those people who can manage to pack on unbelieveable pounds and still be alive long enough to get a reality show, while the gym bunny, who is slimmer than you are, is diagnosed with ‘normal weight obesity’ and is now living at the doctor’s office ’cause she’s at a “fatal risk for heart disease”. Yes, genetics a b!tch on a rocket stick.

Our skin is constantly shedding (skin cell turnover) cells and replacing them with new ones. It is the fresh new, hydrated and well nourished cells that impart this glow, and the dead skin cells that are just hanging around that can contribute to a dull sallow look on body. Skin cell turnover occurs naturally but slows down with age, and by ‘with age’ it is meant 25 years old or so.

…

…*crickets*…

…

Some of us are in the peak of the turnover party… yeeaaah!… Cherish it. For some of us memories of that mosh pit are a tad spotty but thankfully there are ways that we can assist our body in doing it’s thing and achieving this sexy glow by means of ~ Body Exfoliation.

In general exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells and can result in 
~ Healthier skin complexion and clarity
~ Unclogs follicles and pores allowing skin to ‘breathe’ better and for better penetration of moisturizers, lotions and serums 
~ Improves skin texture and makes it smoother (aka mas sexy!) 
~ Other skin function such as stimulating skin’s overall functions, increasing circulation, energizing superficial lymphatic flow and stimulates nerve endings…

That’s a lot of stimulation right thuurr! … but that’s another topic 

Now, this process of removing dead cells can be done manually or chemically.

Manual exfoliation stimulates circulation and involves the use of physical force (like rubbing) for example using a dry brush, mitts, loofahs, and a whole host of natural substances  like salt (detoxifies skin), sugar (moisturizes skin), cornmeal and ground coffee (said to be good to help minimize the look of cellulite) mixed with water, oils or creams. Most of these natural substances can already be found in your home and *secret* ~ are the ingredients that are often used in high end Spas for that ‘natural’ experience. Makes you think!

 

In chemical exfoliation an ingredient(s) or ‘chemical(s)’ in the product (acids or enzymes) do the work and no physical rubbing is required as the ingredient itself dissolves the dead skin cells. A little creepy sounding but it works amazingly well. Some of these acids/ enzymes are  found in common fruits such as papaya/paw paw, strawberries and pineapple. (food.Yum!) A common chemical exfoliation not found in food is salicylic acid, which usually found in acne treatment products. 

Along with a healthy diet and lifestyle (ever realize how many times you hear that? lol) regular exfoliation (once or twice a week) is a great way to achieve softer, healthier, more touchable skin. However there are some precautions that should be taken when adopting a exfoliating regime for the body like avoid use on:

~ open wounds
~ surgical procedures where skin should not be moved
~ sensitive areas like varicose veins, open wounds, infection or inflammation
~ sunburns (see Sunkissed beauty)

Additionally salt and other exfoliates that dissolve (like sugar) should not be used immediately after waxing as this can potentially irritate skin. Aggressive exfoliation, involving larger, sharper, non-circular granules like cornmeal & ground coffee should be avoided on sensitive skin. And by all means in the excitement of having goddess skin do not over-exfoliate or rub too hard or fast (thank goodness I’m sharing this as a verbally cause I’m cracking to hell up) as over exfoliation can damage your skin and can lead to scarring in skin that is prone to hyper-pigmentation (or darkening)… so easy on the rubbing.

You know you want to. Go get your grind on.

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