Anti-Aging Tip #5

Use chemical exfoliating agents regularly.

As discussed earlier when we explored the various skin types, alpha hydroxyacids (AHAs) stimulate the exfoliation of skin cells, a process that:

- Helps smooth skin

- Decreases the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles

- Improves hyper-pigmentation i.e. helps even the skin colour of darkened areas on the skin

- Increases the skin’s firmness and smoothness. As the skin is exfoliated, it is renewed in a more orderly fashion, which normalizes the skin’s sebum (oil) production and reinforces the barrier function, the protective layer, of the skin.

More dramatic refinement of the skin occurs after months of consistent, regular use of AHAs.

The most common AHAs are:

- Glycolic acid – derived from sugarcane
- Lactic acid – derived from milk
- Malic acid – derived from apples and pears
- Citric acid – derived from lemons and oranges
- Tartaric acid – derived from grapes 

For Oily and Combination skin types, it is recommended that a liquid to a gel form of AHA product is used that would also provide adequate hydration to the skin. Cream versions of AHA products are recommended for dry skin types. 

AHAs must remain on the skin’s surface to work so cleansers that contain AHAs are not very effective, as they are washed off the skin.

AHAs should be used under sunscreens, minimum SPF 15, as they typically result in a thinning of the skin’s surface. Using products that contain AHAs without sunscreen can result in great damage of the skin, and increase hyper-pigmentation.

Choosing the right AHA product for your skin type is important. 

AHAs vary in concentration (% of the specific acid for example) and pH (relative acidity). The wrong combination of both can result in much irritation to different skin types. Consult your skin care therapist for more on choosing the AHA product that is right for you.

Related posts

Anti-Aging Tip #4 
Skin Type | Combination Skin   
Smooth Criminal
Exfoliating vs. Peeling
Fact Sheet: Microdermabrasion

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Anti-Aging Tip #3

Preserve the protective layer of the skin.

In discussing the various skin types – Normal, Dry, Oily and Combination skin, we spoke about the importance of the protective layer, or the barrier function, of the skin.

With age and increasing sun damage, the protective layer on the skin’s surface decreases causing:

- Water to escape from the lower levels of the skin, and
- Irritants to penetrate the skin much easier, causing inflammation and leading to free radical damage.

A compromised protective layer on the skin’s surface hampers the skin’s ability to hold in moisture which can result in pre-mature aging, which includes:

- The formation of fine lines and wrinkles
- A lack of muscle tone in skin (saggy, droopy skin)
- The skin generally looking older and more damaged than it really is.

Avoid using aggressive soaps and cleansers on the skin as these products strip the skin of it’s protective layer.

Cold, wind and forced heat are also some factors that interfere with the skin’s barrier function. Under these conditions, it is important to use a suitable moisturizer to maintain the barrier function of the skin.

POSSIBLY RELATED GC POSTS
Anti-Aging Tip #2 
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Skin Type| Dry Skin

Dry skin is one of four categories of skin types, and is the skin type that lacks oil. Some characteristics of dry skin may include:

- Thin texture
- Lack of sebum (skin’s oil secretions)
- No oily film present
- Tight/ taut sensation
- Lack of suppleness and tone
- Matte complexion
- Closed pores
- Rough texture
- Flakes of dehydration
- Expression lines (frown, smile etc) as a result of reduced natural lubrication and superficial dehydration
- Dull, lackluster skin 

Treatment

As the protective barrier on dry skin is already compromised, harsh, soapy, detergent cleansers can completely ‘strip’ skin’s protective barrier. Products with a higher oil (lipid) content work well for dry skin as they help reinforce this protective layer.

Cream or emollient cleansers, conditioning cleansers that are ‘non-soapy’ and often have either a thick or a fluid like milky look, work best for dry skin, especially chronically dry skin – skin that is prone to cracking, splitting and bleeding. The thicker the consistency of the cream cleanser, the more beneficial it is to drier skin, as the more oils the cleanser contains.

These same rules apply when choosing a moisturizer for dry skin. The drier the skin the more it benefits from the oils present in cream based moisturizers.

Exfoliation

For normal to dry skin, frequent mechanical exfoliation, with the use of appropriately mild facial scrubs 2-3 times a week is beneficial, as it helps shed the over abundance of dead skin cells present on the skin’s surface that can contribute to a dull, lackluster skin tone. 

This exfoliation of normal to dry skin also helps stimulate the skin’s sebaceous (oil) glands and promote the skin’s production of oils that this skin type lacks.

Harsh exfoliating agents such as crushed walnut/ apricot shells should not be used on the face, especially on chronically dry skin. Even though these shells may be finely crushed, the pieces are not uniformly smooth and may contain sharp edges that can rip, tear and damage the skin’s surface.

Exfoliating agents that dissolve in water, like crushed cornmeal or exfoliating agents that contain spherical ‘microbeads’ work better at exfoliating skin without damaging its structure.

Alternatively, products that contain chemical exfoliating agents like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic and lactic acids  can work well to smoothen rough-textured, dry and dehydrated skin. Contact your skin care therapist before you start using these products as incorrect use can severely damage skin.

Dehydration

Usually, but not always, dry skin is also dehydrated. Therefore, using products that contain a high water content, like toners and/ or fluid moisturizers, can help to hydrate the skin, leaving it more soft and supple.

Drinking the required amount of water daily and having a diet full of vegetables (that contain mostly water) also assist dry skin to maintain flexibility.

Aging

Because dry skin often is dehydrated and lacks oil, suppleness and tone, it is prone to faster aging than oily skin. A proper and consistent moisturizing habit as well as the use of sunscreen are two ways to help prevent pre-mature aging.

Possibly related posts
Q/A: Is toner important?    
Q/A: Skin type vs. Skin condition 
 Premature aging

Wash mindfully

The conditioning agents present in hair conditioners can clog skin pores when they are deposited on your skin through rinsing. If you have an issue with pimples, acne or general build up occuring on your back, try cleansing your skin after you have rinsed the conditioner out of your hair, and not before. Doing so will wash away any potential pore clogging residue from your back.

If you tend to have excess oil buildup on your face or have acneic skin, also consider cleansing your face with your routine cleanser after you’ve rinsed the conditioner from your hair.

Alternatively, you can choose to apply a leave-in conditioner, in a cream or spray formula depending on the texture and condition of your hair. Apply the leave-in conditioner from the middle of the hair strands to the ends, avoiding the forehead and other areas of your face. This is because the conditioning agents present in the leave-in conditioners can leave the same build up/ residue on the skin, which can clog pores on the face and give rise to acne in the same way.

Cream leave-in conditioners work well for drier hair and/or thicker hair strands as they provide extensive moisturization and help to better tame fizziness. However these formulas will weigh down fine hair.

Choose the one that works best for you.

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POSSIBLY RELATED GC POSTS

Clean roots, Soften ends
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Skin Types| Normal Skin

“Normal skin” is considered to be one of four categories of  skin types. This type of skin secretes a moderate amount of sebum (oils secreted by the skin) so there is no lack neither  is there excess. Skin feels neither dry nor oily.

Most skins can be classified as either normal to dry or normal to oily. It is very rare that a skin type would considered to be normal, that is it is not affected by any underlying skin conditions. For example this skin type is not dehydrated, does not have areas with darkened or lightened spots, is not acneic, or does not show signs of aging etc.

Not even all babies today are born with a normal skin type. Some babies are born with birthmarks on their skin, some have rough scaly patches, and some are even born with breakout activity on their faces for example.

Normal skin is perfect to the naked eye. Because it has the right balance of oils, normal skin:

- Is plump
- Is smooth and soft
- Has even pores and colour tone
- Has no excess oil or dryness.

Normal skin can use either water (aqueous) or oil (lipid) based products. This type of skin easily maintains it’s balance and it’s protective barrier. 

As this skin type is very rare, it is a good idea to re-evaluate this skin type with the change of the season or lifestyle.

Possibly related post -> 10 Top Skin-Care Faux Pas

Anti-Aging Tip #1

Avoid aggravating skin

Avoid any habit, product or treatment that acutely irritates skin – sun, heat, smoking and excessive alcohol for example. Anything that continuously reddens skin like harsh cleansers and toners with stripping agents like alcohols should also be avoided.

Also, using soothing agents like grapeseed oil, green tea and oatmeal in skin care products can help control inflammation and prevent the trigger reactions that lead to free radical damage.

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Leave the scrubbing action for your bathroom tiles.

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Supernova

Related post:
Pre mature aging  
HELP! My skin is schizo

Natural vs. Organic

Ooooooh! “Natural” products. “Natural” has been getting a lot of play lately, seeing that the world’s gone green and all. But ‘natural’ isn’t new; it’s not exactly breakthrough science. You are natural. I am natural; well at least we were born that way. The earth is natural, and has been for kazillion of years. Cyanide is natural; doesn’t mean that you want to eat it, or rub it on your skin. 

A natural substance is one that exists in nature, and it was not created by humans in a laboratory. Not that some natural substances, flavours for example, cannot be reproduced in a lab, but ‘natural’ substances can be found, in their original state, in nature. 

There is a myth that natural substances do not contain chemicals. By golly yes they do. All products contain chemicals of some sort; most chemicals used to produce cosmetics and skin care products are derived from plants. 

Natural extracts and substances are groups of chemicals. Some chemicals may irritate skin and can even be fatal yes, like those found in poison ivy, but not all chemicals do. It is estimated that over one-third of all drugs are derived from plants. 

The label ‘Natural’ does not mean that the product isn’t:

- fatal
- carcinogenic  (cancer causing)
- irritating to skin 
- foul smelling
- safe or that it doesn’t contain harmful pesticides. 

A product need only contain 3% natural products to be labelled ‘natural’. The other 97% could be pure synthesized garbage, complicated names that you can’t pronounce, but it is marketed at natural, for good reason. I mean, would you purchase a product that is labelled “UNNATURAL”? Further more, the 3% of the product that is natural need not be an active ingredient, it could be a filler, like mineral oil. Mineral oil is natural, it is derived from the earth. There are no strict rules whatsoever regarding the composition of natural products. 

Though great marketing, ‘natural’ products are not necessarily better or worse than synthetic/ laboratory-synthesized products.

In some cases synthetically made products may be favoured over natural ones, as here there is the advantage of eliminating contaminants found in nature, and stabilizing ingredients with a limited shelf life or those that are photosensitive i.e. are destroyed by sunlight. In this regard, laboratory synthesized manufacturing can offer greater quality control over products that are mass made, travel longer distances or have to withstand extreme temperature changes, hot or cold.

At the same time a lot of expense cuts can be taken and the manufacturer can use a lot of synthetic ‘filler’ products to cut costs. It really depends on the product and the manufacturer. Look at the product label and see what are the first 5 ingredients that the product contains. Do they include Active ingredients? Water? Essential oils? Or are they just all synthetic fillers?

Natural should not be confused with organic. 

Products that are labelled organic have to adhere to strict manufacturing, and are heavily regulated. The use of non-organic pesticides, insecticides and herbicides are greatly restricted, however at times certain non-organic fertilizers are still used. Where animals are used they must be raised without growth hormones and antibiotics and generally have a diet that is healthier than either yours or mine.

Usually, organic foods cannot be genetically modified, i.e. the DNA of the food cannot be changed through selective breeding, or genetic engineering for example, which is largely done in plants to make them more resistant to disease. For example, some tomatoes have been gentically modified through the addition of a certain gene that suppresses the natural gene it contains, which makes them soften shortly after harvesting.

As a result, though free of harmful chemicals, the composition organic products are usually smaller, wrinklier, may not be as brightly colored and usually don’t travel well, unless of course you are picking it from your backyard just in time to eat it. The chemical composition/ effectiveness of the ingredients in organic products may also differ slightly from batch to batch.

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Watch your contents.

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Related GC posts
Ingredient Spotlight: Mineral Oil 
GMOs : Genetically Modified Foods
Health | Best foods 

Smooches!

Ain’t nothing as unsexy as reaching first base with the hotty, and retreating with your lips more distressed than last year’s denim. Its not a female only thing, men you too need to step up your game in this department.

Follow these tips at least twice weekly to achieve healthy kissable lips.

1. Remove lip product (color or balm) from lips

2. Gently exfoliate wet lips with a wet wash cloth or soft used toothbrush.
Not too much and not to rough, but be careful to remove the dry flakes and/ or product buildup that can be left from mineral oil or wax based lip balms or lip colours.

3. Pat lips dry with tissue or clean dry washcloth

4. Replace oils with hydrating lip balm
Lip balms that contain beeswax or mineral oil as its first ingredient, may extend the wear of the lip balm, but they also leave more residue on the lips. If you wear these types of balms daily, gently exfoliate lips nightly during your facial cleansing routine to prevent buildup on lips.

Licking lips is not an acceptable substitute for lip balm if you have chapped lips. Your saliva may seem like it moisturizes lips in the moment, but when dried it will leave a layer of salty mucous on lips. This salt will aid even further moisture loss from lips. Find a suitable lip balm or gloss.

5. Hydrate
Drink water daily to keep lips, and skin as a whole hydrated. And ease up on salt!

Freakin’Fabulous

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Stragglers

The way you wear your hair tells the world a lot about you. Just like the clothing, jewelry or shoes that you choose, you can make a statement, or not, just by the way you wear your hair. Long, short, straight, curly, kinky, nappy, bleached, coloured – how you choose to wear your hair is a beautiful reflection of who you are.

Some prefer the siren glam of long flowing hair. Others prefer the chic look of a cropped ‘do. Sensually curly or sophisticatedly straight, beautiful hair is healthy hair. 

You would find that it is very difficult for hair with damaged hair ends to maintain a style. It is dry, frizzy and generally screams “HELP”. Short healthy hair is more attractive than long dry, damaged hair. 

Split ends 

Hair that is naturally curly, naturally long, chemically processed, bleached, relaxed or permed, or heat-styled by the use of blow-driers, flatirons, curling irons or pressing combs for example are at a higher risk of the dreaded split end attack.

-Naturally curly hair has a tendency to be drier than other types of hair and needs to be replenished of both water and oils regularly.

- The longer you grow your natural hair, the more the ends of your hair are put under stress. Environmental stressors include the sun, wind, salt water (beach), chlorinated water (pools) and pollution.  Daily stressors include daily wear and tear  of combing, brushing, shampooing and heat styling. Certain hair products, especially those that contain alcohol for example some types of hair sprays, also contribute to split ends. 

- A healthy cuticle gives hair it’s natural brilliance and shine. During chemical hair processes like perming, relaxing and hair colouring the structure of the hair shaft is changed. The cuticle, or the outer casing of the hair, is altered, which translates into some degree of damage.

In split ends, the hair shaft, an individual strand of hair, is split in at least two. This damage is irreversible, i.e. it cannot be repaired. Conditioners, flat irons, pomades and other innovative hair styling products/ tools can help decrease the dry frizziness associated with split ends by allowing the damaged cuticle of the hair to lay flat, but they do not repair these damaged ends. As soon as the product is washed out, or the hair is wet again, in the case of flatirons and other heat styling tools, the damaged, dry, frizzy ends will return. 

The only solution to split ends so to cut them off. 
This may be painful for some, but the good thing is that the hair:
1. Will grow back.
2. Ends will be healthy
3. Will behave/ be more manageable
4. Will hold styles longer
5. Will style better. 

To help keep split ends at bay moving forward:

- Avoid daily shampooing
Even with the use of a gentle daily shampoo, hair is stripped of hydration and oils. Shampoo every other day or every three days if your lifestyle allows it. Or, if your hair is dry, consider shampooing every other day, and just using a conditioner between shampoos.

- Moisturize hair ends
If your hair is dry, use a moisturizing conditioner after shampooing and deep condition hair ends at least once a month.

- Avoid daily heat styling
If you find yourself having to do this, consider talking with your stylist to get a ‘do that is more compatible with your hair type, texture and lifestyle.

- Avoid over processing hair
Wait the recommended time between your chosen chemical process to maintain the integrity of the hair shaft. Avoid relaxing/ perming and bleaching hair on the same day. These processes need to be at least a week, but preferably two weeks, apart. There are some types of rinses, glosses and semi-permanent colour that can be done more safely just after having done relaxer/ perm. However, these aren’t usually capable of lifting hair colour (making hair colour lighter)

- Trim ends every 6 weeks 
Or when you get your relaxer/ perm/ colour. Whichever comes first. 

Let’s prune those barbed hedges shall we?

Supernova

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